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Dixondale onions will be available to order in a few weeks - you don't want to miss this!

10/24/2025

Don't delay in getting your Dixondale onions order in for 2025! These sell out fast so get your order placed in mid-November.

Dixondale onions have a bit of a cult following in Colorado (and most other States too) for their large, predictable, hardy onions. If you want to harvest big tasty onions like you see at the grocery store, you want to plant Dixondale onions in your garden.

Dixondale Farms has been in business for 113 years (!) and there is no comparison to their onions. Nothing we've ever purchased in Colorado has performed even close to these beauties. If you love onions, this is your go-to.

Their pricing is reasonable ($16.70 for 48 bare root onions) and they offer free shipping on every order.

Place your order NOW and they will send the sets to you at the appropriate time next spring (April time frame). TIP: order the "intermediate" varieties - white, yellow, and/or red.

Dixondale Farms catalogs are in the mail now. You can also view the online catalog here. Learn more about Dixondale and their large onion grow operation click here.

Remember to order Intermediate-Day or Long-Day onion plants for best results here in our area.

These onions are large, reliable, and perfect for Colorado gardens.

When to cut back ornamental grasses

10/23/2025

First, are your ornamental grasses cool-season or warm-season?

The best time to cut back ornamental grasses depends on the type of grass you have but in general cut back warm=season grasses in Fall or by mid to late Spring, and cut back cool-season grasses in very early Spring.

Leaving some grasses through the winter provides visual interest and ecological benefits for birds and insects.

However, there are some specific circumstances when a Fall cut is preferable in our specific area:

We live in an area prone to wildfires.
Our grasses tend to flop over and look messy due to heavy snow.
If your grass has a foliar disease that you want to remove.
You simply prefer a tidy winter landscape

Warm-season grasses to cut back in Fall
These grasses turn brown in the colder weather and can be cut down to 4-6 inches tall anytime from late Fall to mid-Spring. Examples include:

Feather reed grass (e.g., 'Karl Foerster')
Switchgrass
Big bluestem
Little bluestem
Maiden grass and Zebra grass (types of Miscanthus)
Fountain grass
Blonde Ambition
Shenandoah (type of switchgrass)

Cool-season grasses to NOT cut in Fall
These grasses often remain attractive through the winter and should not be cut back hard in the Fall. Wait until late Winter or very early Spring (February or March) and only remove about two-thirds of the height. Examples include:

Blue fescue
Mexican feather grass
Sedges
Tufted Hairgrass
Blue Oat Grass
Feather Reed Grass

CSU Extension provides an excellent chart of grasses, classified by cool or warm.

The dried foliage of ornamental grasses helps insulate the plants' roots, provides winter interest, and offers habitat for overwintering pollinators.

Amend your soil now for a healthier garden come Spring

10/15/2025

As our gardening season wraps up, there's one final but very important task to tend to: feeding your soil.

Amending soil in the Fall is one of the best ways to set your garden up for success come spring. After a season of growing, soil nutrients are often depleted, and fall offers the perfect window to restore them while the ground is still workable.

Start by clearing out spent plants and lightly loosening the top few inches of soil. Then add a couple inches of organic matter such as compost, well-rotted manure, or leaves — these materials slowly break down over winter, enriching the soil with nutrients and improving texture. Then finish with a mulch layer of shredded leaves, or chopped straw (heat-sterilized to eliminate weed seeds).

For particularly poor or compacted soil, a top layer of rich compost or aged manure left in place over winter can act as a nourishing blanket that feeds beneficial microbes and earthworms.

Then put the shovel away and let nature takes its course throughout Winter to grow microbes, worms, and other beneficial organisms needed for healthy plant growth.

Take advantage of Fall’s cooler weather to test your soil’s pH and nutrient levels, adjusting as needed with natural amendments like lime (to raise pH) or sulfur (to lower it).

By the time Spring arrives, your soil will be loose, rich, and teeming with life — ready to support stronger, healthier plants with less work.

A note about adding Nitrogen to the soil
Nitrogen plays a vital role in soil health and plant growth — it’s one of the three primary nutrients (along with phosphorus and potassium) that plants need in the largest amounts.

It’s a key component of chlorophyll, the molecule that allows plants to convert sunlight into energy through photosynthesis, and of amino acids, the building blocks of proteins that drive growth and repair. Without enough nitrogen, plants often appear pale green or yellow, grow slowly, and produce fewer leaves and smaller yields.

In the soil, nitrogen fuels the activity of beneficial microbes that break down organic matter, enriching the soil structure and improving fertility over time.

In Colorado, it’s best to add nitrogen to your garden soil in Spring or early Summer, when plants are actively growing and can use it right away. Nitrogen is highly mobile in the soil — snowmelt and rain during winter can wash it away before plants benefit. For that reason, Fall applications are usually not recommended unless you’re preparing new beds and combining nitrogen with organic matter that needs time to decompose.

How to keep squirrels from damaging pumpkins

10/15/2025

Squirrels love to nibble on pumpkins - here's how to keep them away

There are several effective (and humane) ways to keep squirrels from turning your fall decorations or garden harvest into snacks:

1. Use Natural Repellents

Spray pumpkins with a mix of water and hot sauce, vinegar, or peppermint oil. The strong scent and taste discourage chewing.
Commercial repellents: Products with putrescent egg solids or capsaicin (hot pepper) are effective and safe for outdoor use.

2. Create a Barrier

Surround pumpkins with a lightweight chicken wire cloche or garden fencing to physically block access.
Elevate displays: Place pumpkins on porches, railings, or stands that make them harder to reach.

3. Use Visual or Motion Deterrents

Add fake owls, rubber snakes, or motion-activated sprinklers to startle squirrels away.
Move the deterrents occasionally so they don’t get used to them.

4. Try Coatings or Finishes

Spraying pumpkins with clear acrylic sealer or hairspray can change the texture and make the surface less appealing to chew.
Avoid coatings like petroleum jelly or WD-40 — they can attract more critters.

5. Provide Alternatives - Place a few corn cobs or nuts in a distant part of the yard. Squirrels often leave your pumpkins alone once they find an easier food source.

With a few of these strategies — especially combining a repellent spray and wire barrier — your pumpkins can stay intact and festive all season long.

Homemade Squirrel Repellent Spray Recipe
Ingredients

1 quart (4 cups) of water
1 tablespoon of hot sauce or 1–2 teaspoons of crushed red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon of dish soap (helps it stick to surfaces)

Optional additions:

A few drops of peppermint oil or clove oil — squirrels dislike strong scents.

Instructions

Combine all ingredients in a spray bottle and shake well.
Spray generously on pumpkins, planters, and surrounding areas — avoiding tender plant leaves if you use a strong mix.
Reapply every few days, especially after rain or watering.

Tip: Test a small area first; the dish soap can slightly change the pumpkin’s finish.
The hot pepper deters squirrels by taste and smell, while the peppermint adds an extra scent barrier — together, they’re an effective and natural defense for your fall display.

Asters - the jewels of Fall perennial color and a pollinator favorite too!

10/15/2025

Asters bring vibrant late-season color to your garden just as other blooms fade.

Asters are cheerful, daisy-like perennials that bring brilliant color to the garden just as summer fades.

Blooming in shades of purple, pink, blue, and white, they provide a late-season feast for bees, butterflies, and other pollinators when many flowers have finished. Their star-shaped blooms, reflected in the name “aster,” which means “star” in Greek, make them a standout in borders, meadows, and pollinator gardens.

In Colorado, asters thrive in the bright sun and cooler nights of late summer and fall. They prefer well-drained soil and moderate watering, showing impressive resilience to drought once established.

Cutting them back before early Summer encourages fuller growth and more blossoms later on. As autumn settles in, asters combine beautifully with ornamental grasses, goldenrod, and mums, extending the season’s color well into the first frosts.

They’re not only a low-maintenance visual delight once established, but also a vital link in supporting pollinators before winter arrives.

How to grow asters in your garden

Choose the Right Variety: Look for hardy types which tolerate Colorado’s variable climate and cold winters. Varieties of asters to consider include:
- New England - large blossoms, many available in both short and tall varieties
- Wild Blue Aster (native)
- Smooth aster - native, low-maintenance
- Aromatic Aster (lower more compact native)
- Heath Aster - masses of small white flowers on airy, cloud-like mounds
- Alpine - compact, early summer flowering aster (not for Fall color but a great choice if you want blooms earlier in the season)
Planting Time: Plant in spring or early summer, giving roots time to establish before the fall bloom. You can also plant container-grown asters in early fall if you water consistently.
Location: Pick a sunny spot — asters need at least 6 hours of direct sun daily.
Soil: They prefer well-draining soil enriched with compost; they don’t like soggy roots.
Watering: Water regularly through the growing season, especially during hot, dry spells, but allow the soil to dry slightly between waterings.
Maintenance: Pinch back the stems by one-third in early summer to encourage bushier growth and more blooms. TIP: remove spent flowers once your asters have officially finished blooming. This helps avoid thin, unwanted seedlings that may not mirror the parent plant.
Fall Care: After flowering, you can leave the seed heads for birds or cut the plants back once they die back naturally.
Winter Prep: Mulch lightly after the ground freezes to protect roots from temperature swings.

With varieties ranging from compact mounds to tall, airy forms, asters fit beautifully into any garden design.

Don't let your beautiful dahlias freeze!

10/15/2025

Lift, dry, and store them for next year instead.

The best time to pull dahlia bulbs in fall is after the first light frost has blackened the foliage but before a hard freeze. This timing allows the tubers to finish maturing in the soil while avoiding damage from freezing temperatures.

Storing dahlia bulbs (tubers) properly over winter keeps them healthy and ready to grow again in spring.

Dig Carefully: After the first frost blackens the foliage, cut stems to 4–6 inches and gently lift the clumps with a garden fork. Avoid nicking the tubers.
Clean & Dry: Brush off loose soil and rinse lightly if needed. Let the tubers dry for 1–3 days in a cool, airy spot out of direct sunlight.
Label Them: Mark each clump with its variety or color before storing so you remember which is which next Spring when you plant them anew.
Pack for Storage: Place tubers in a box or bin lined with newspaper, sawdust, or vermiculite. Space them so they don’t touch.
Store Cool & Dark: Keep them in a 40–50°F location — such as a basement, garage, or root cellar where they won’t freeze or dry (too warm) to the point of shriveling.
Check Periodically: Every few weeks, inspect tubers for rot or shriveling. Mist lightly if they start to dry out too much.
In Spring, replant the firm, healthy tubers after the last frost and you’ll enjoy another beautiful season of dahlias for free!

Additional Resources
How to store your dahlia tubers indoors this Fall
Don't lose your dahlias to frost - do this one easy task while weather is still warm

Once the leaves and stems of dahlias turn dark and wilted (after first frost), cut the plant back to about 4–6 inches, carefully dig up the clump, and let the tubers dry for a day or two before storing them in a cool, frost-free place for winter.

Bulbs to plant this Fall for gorgeous Spring blooms

10/9/2025

Plant Spring blooming bulbs in Fall once soil cools to 50 degrees or lower (late September - October).

Planting Depths
Measure hole depth, not depth to top of bulb. Plant pointed side up; space 2–3 times the bulb width apart. Planting depths for commonly grown bulbs in our area:

Tulips – 8"
Daffodils – 6–8"
Hyacinths – 6–8"
Crocus – 3–4"
Alliums – 6–8" (giants up to 8")
Snowdrops (Galanthus) – 3"
Grape Hyacinths (Muscari) – 3–4"
Scilla (Squill) – 3–4"

Deer & Rabbit Resistant Bulbs

Daffodils, Alliums, Snowdrops, Grape Hyacinths, Fritillaria, Scilla
- Muscari (grape hyacinths) spread readily into clumps - can be aggressive in certain conditions.
- Scilla (squill) can naturalize aggressively where happy.

Fertilizing Bulbs

When to Fertilize:
- At planting (Fall)
- Again each Spring just as shoots emerge (not after blooming).
Type: Balanced, slow-release granular fertilizer (e.g. 5-10-10 or 10-10-10) or a bulb-specific fertilizer.
Tip: Avoid high nitrogen (too much leaf, weak bulbs).
Once vs. Twice? Fertilizing only at planting is enough for one season, but yearly feeding at early Spring growth keeps bulbs strong for long-term perennial bloom.

Tips for Success

Loose, well-drained soil prevents rot; add compost if needed.
Water well after planting; usually no extra water until spring.
Apply 2–3" mulch to regulate temps & prevent frost heaving.
Plant bulbs in groups of 5–15 for natural impact.
Mark planting spots—you’ll forget by spring!
Critter protection: lay chicken wire over beds before mulching.

More Information

Cornell Gardening Resources
American Daffodil Society
RHS Bulb Planting Guides

Remember: Plant when nights are in the 40-50 degrees range and before soil freezes.

A comfort food recipe perfect for Fall

10/9/2025

Nothing says Fall like an apple sausage stuffed squash for dinner

Stuffed squash is a cozy, seasonal dish that transforms tender, hollowed-out squash into an edible bowl filled with flavorful ingredients like grains, vegetables, herbs, and cheese.

This recipe checks all the cozy Fall feels and can be made with any kind of squash you have on hand. For thinner skinned squashes like zucchini or yellow squash, bake the squash in the oven for only 20-25 minutes before stuffing. For thicker skinned squash like butternut or acorn, follow instructions in recipe.

Other proteins may be used i.e. chicken, bacon, or ground turkey. For vegan recipe, replace the meat with sauteed mushrooms, cooked quinoa, or rice.

Ingredients

2 ½ pound butternut squash
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
kosher salt and ground black pepper, to taste
½ pound Italian sausage
½ onion, diced
3 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups (lightly packed) baby spinach
1 apple, cored and diced
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage
½ tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary
⅓ cup dried cranberries, unsweetened
¼ cup pecans, roughly chopped

Instructions

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Slide squash in half lengthwise and cut off ends.
Scoop seeds out of squash and discard. Lightly oil the inside of the squash and season with salt and pepper.
Lay squash cut side down and bade for 40-45 minutes.
While squash is cooking, cook the sausage and veggies:
- Brown sausage and cook until just browned.
- Add onions, garlic, baby spinach to the pan and stir for 2-3 minutes.
- Add all other ingredients, and cook another 2 - 3 minutes until the apple has softened slightly.
- Turn off head and stir in cranberries and pecans.
Take squash out of oven and fill with the apple sausage filling.
Turn oven to broil and bake the stuffed squash for 5 minutes or until golden on top. Sprinkle a little grated cheese on top for extra richness.

Recipe Tips

Depending on the size of your butternut squash, you may have leftovers of the sausage apple filling. You can top this on leafy greens for a hearty salad or a bowl of rice for a quick-and-easy lunch.
Make this ahead of time by cooking the filling a day before. Then, fill the squash and bake the next day.
To store leftovers: Allow the stuffed squash to cool to room temperature before placing it in the fridge for 3 to 4 days. For reheating, just microwave for a minute or two, until warmed through.
For freezing: For optimal freshness, wrap each squash tightly in plastic wrap or aluminum foil, then place them in a freezer-safe airtight container or a resealable freezer bag. They can be kept in the freezer for up to 3 months.
Reheating: Thaw overnight in the fridge and then reheat in the oven at 350°F (175°C) until warmed through, or use the microwave for a quicker option.

Recipe credit: Downshifology.com

Taking stock of your gardens this Fall

10/9/2025

Now is the best time to easily see and remember which plants did well, and those that did not, and make a plan for changes come Spring.

There's no better time of year to take stock of our gardens than Fall.

Take yourself on a tour of your garden, notepad or journal in hand, and make notes as you stroll and observe your garden. This helps you to remember what plantings may need to be moved to a different spot, or divided, or removed and thrown away (especially if diseased or dead).

Some areas of your garden may have older plantings than others - how are they holding up? Perhaps it is time for some fresh new plants to replace under-performing old perennials?

If you divide, plan ahead by getting small plastic pots for free from your local garden nursery and fill partially with soil. Plant any divisions into the pots, and let friends and neighbors know you have extras to give away (or sell if perhaps your kids are looking to earn some money - they can help with this project)!

Take notes on where weeds tended to proliferate this past season, and try to get rid of them before winter. Vow to get a handle on weeds as soon as you see them sprout in Spring (a pre-emergent like Preen works wonders to prevent weeds in early Spring by the way).

As you walk slowly around your garden, remind yourself of all the successes you witnessed this year and express your gratitude for all that nature has given, and continues, to give you.

The glory of gardening: hands in the dirt, head in the sun, heart with nature. To nurture a garden is to feed not just the body, but the soul. – Alfred Austin

Plants you'll want to be sure to mulch in Fall

10/6/2025

Fall mulching is especially critical for the plants listed here

Fall mulching benefits most plants in every landscape and garden, but it is more important for some plants than for others given our harsh winters.

If you aren't able to get mulch onto all of your plants this season, do focus instead on these seven to help them survive winter and be better plants next Spring:

New trees and shrubs - a thin layer (2-3 inches at most), not too close to the crown (a few inches away from the trunk to prevent rot) will protect fragile and particularly sensitive roots. Use a lightweight mulch like pine needles (not bark mulch).

Vegetable gardens - both in-ground and raised beds - mulch with a rich compost that you can till into the beds come Spring, or cover with pine needles (you'll have to remove before planting next season), or add a thick layer of non-diseased leaves between now and first snow.

Bulbs and Tubers - helps with temperature fluctuations and offers extra nutrition to the soil. Use a rich compost, layering two inches or so.

Perennials - many perennials appreciate extra care and supplemental nutrition in the form of organic mulch or compost in the Fall. The mulch will slowly decompose over the winter, and protect your plants from the harshest winter conditions. Keep a two-inch buffer around the stem to prevent rot or mold.

Roses - temperature spikes and dips is what kills roses in our area (not the freezing itself). We have big swings in temperature in our area ("freeze-thaw" cycles), so it is important to mulch roses that don't like that. Mulch roses only after they have gone dormant (after first hard frost four hours or more in length) with bark, shredded leaves, compost, manure, or any other type of organic mulch that will protect but also have good airflow (not too heavy of a mulch).

Hydrangeas - need frost protection to prevent bud loss. In late Fall add two to three inches of mulch to the base of the plants, and consider burlap wrapping the plants as well (keeping the tops open).

Strawberry plants - adding mulch is essential to winterizing your strawberry plants. It protect plants from being killed off by harsh winter temps and helps to keep the roots moist and prevent drying out. Use a seed-free straw mulch for strawberry plants once the soil is 40 degrees or less for three consecutive days. The plants should be dormant before mulching.

Chocolate flower and other long bloomers for our area

10/6/2025

Sunny yellow daisy-like blooms open in the morning and release a rich, sweet chocolate fragrance.

The chocolate flower (Berlandiera lyrata), also known as lyreleaf greeneyes, is a charming, drought-tolerant perennial native to the southwestern United States.

The chocolate fragrance is especially noticeable at dawn, creating a lovely morning ritual in the garden for those who grow this plant. As the day warms, the petals close, and the scent fades.

Chocolate flower is an extra-cold hardy wildflower that thrives in full sun and well-drained soil, making it ideal for xeriscapes and pollinator gardens. It is loved by bees and butterflies but ignored by deer.

The plants bloom from late spring through summer, often reseeding themselves naturally. Beyond its delightful aroma, the chocolate flower adds a cheerful, natural look to borders, rock gardens, and meadow-style plantings — bringing both beauty and a touch of whimsy to any dry-climate garden.

Other long blooming perennials great for our area include:

Persian Stonecress
Hardy Plumbago
Coreopsis lanceolata and verticillata
Purple Prairie Clover
Hardy Iceplant
Gaillardia Blanket Flower
Shasta Daisy
Catmint
Penstemon Scarlet and Firecracker
Russian Sage
Black-eyed Susan
Prairie Zinnia

Mulch your leaves instead of bagging!

10/6/2025

Gardeners love leaves!

Don’t hurt your back and spend a lot of needless effort raking and bagging leaves. There’s a better way - and it encourages you to avoid raking altogether.

Try using those leaves as mulch instead - it’s good for your landscape, good for the environment, and easier on you. See our article on mulching plants in Fall before the freeze-thaw of Winter begins).

Gather leaves for mulch when they are dry, or mow dry leaves on the lawn without a grass catcher to create an airy, natural mulch for the lawn. If you’ve got a mulch setting on your mower, make sure you’ve got it set to 'mulch'.

If you’ve got a lot of leaves and don’t have a mulch setting on your lawn mower, it might take an extra pass or two with the mower to break up all of the leaves. The smaller the pieces, the more quickly they will decompose. Those biodegradable fragments return nutrients to your landscape, supporting root growth, micro-organisms, and worms.

Mulched leaves and grass clippings also help regulate the soil temperature when it gets cold, retain moisture in soil on dry days, and can reduce weed propagation next year.

Got piles of fallen leaves in your flowerbeds? Leave them, or move them to other garden areas and around trees and shrubs.

Mulching is a great way to reduce, reuse and recycle at one time, and with less effort than bagging leaves and importantly, saving the landfills of plastic bags filled with leaves.

Dixondale onions will be available to order in a few weeks - you don't want to miss this!

Don't delay in getting your Dixondale onions order in for 2025! These sell out fast so get your order placed in mid-November.

When to cut back ornamental grasses

First, are your ornamental grasses cool-season or warm-season?

Amend your soil now for a healthier garden come Spring

As our gardening season wraps up, there's one final but very important task to tend to: feeding your soil.

How to keep squirrels from damaging pumpkins

Squirrels love to nibble on pumpkins - here's how to keep them away

Asters - the jewels of Fall perennial color and a pollinator favorite too!

Asters bring vibrant late-season color to your garden just as other blooms fade.

Don't let your beautiful dahlias freeze!

Lift, dry, and store them for next year instead.

Bulbs to plant this Fall for gorgeous Spring blooms

Plant Spring blooming bulbs in Fall once soil cools to 50 degrees or lower (late September - October).

A comfort food recipe perfect for Fall

Nothing says Fall like an apple sausage stuffed squash for dinner

Taking stock of your gardens this Fall

Now is the best time to easily see and remember which plants did well, and those that did not, and make a plan for changes come Spring.

Plants you'll want to be sure to mulch in Fall

Fall mulching is especially critical for the plants listed here

Chocolate flower and other long bloomers for our area

Sunny yellow daisy-like blooms open in the morning and release a rich, sweet chocolate fragrance.

Mulch your leaves instead of bagging!

Gardeners love leaves!

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